Whirlpool Washing Machine Error Codes — Complete Australian Guide (2026)

Quick answer: Australian Whirlpool washers speak four different code languages, so identify the machine before you chase the code: 6th Sense FSCR front loaders mostly show pictograms (tap, filter and spanner symbols) plus a handful of readable codes such as FdL, Fod and F24; FreshCare FDLR front loaders only ever flash a generic F-code; older WFS front loaders use FH (fill), FP (drain) and FA (waterstop); and WB top loaders use E1 to E5 plus EA and EC. The three most common real-world fixes are cleaning the drain pump filter (FP, the filter symbol, or E2), opening the tap and cleaning the inlet mesh filters (FH, the tap symbol, or E1), and closing the lid properly (E4 and E5). American codes such as F5 E2, Sud and LF come from a different product line and do not apply to Australian machines. If a code comes back after one reset, match it to your exact model’s manual before ordering anything.

Which Whirlpool do you have? Four platforms, four code languages

Whirlpool Australia publishes no error-code list of its own — the codes only exist inside individual model manuals. That is why generic “Whirlpool code lists” online are so often wrong for an Australian machine: the local range is really four different platforms, and the same F-number can mean different things on two of them. Find the model number on the model sticker (inside the door rim on front loaders, or on the rear panel of top loaders), then read the section for your family:

• 6th Sense front loaders (FSCR series, e.g. FSCR12420): mostly pictograms — a tap symbol, a filter symbol and a spanner (Service) symbol — with only a few readable codes.
• FreshCare front loaders (FDLR series, e.g. FDLR10250, FDLR90250, FDLR80250): plain-language prompts plus one generic “F-01, F-..” style code with a single published instruction.
• Older WFS front loaders (e.g. WFS1273AW, WFS1273BD): the classic European set — FH, FP, FA, F0d. Models without a digital display never show letters at all: the failure appears as a combination of LED lights on the programme-sequence indicator, so many owners only ever see a flashing pattern or a red service lamp.
• WB top loaders (WB70803, WB10037): a completely separate E-series — E1 to E5, EA and EC — announced with a buzzer for about 10 seconds.

One trap to clear up front: if the list you found includes F5 E2, F8 E1, Sud, LF or LOC, you are reading the American playbook — those codes do not apply to Australian-market Whirlpools and should be ignored here.

6th Sense front loaders (FSCR series): pictograms first, codes second

These machines deliberately keep the vocabulary small. Whirlpool’s own guide decodes the symbols and a handful of messages, then lumps everything else together as an electrical component failure.

Code	What it means	Most likely cause	The fix
Water tap closed	Tap symbol lit — no water, or not enough, arrived within the allowed fill time.	Tap off or partly open, kinked inlet hose, blocked inlet mesh filters.	Checks first; if the valve has failed: WHIRLPOOL WASHING MACHINE DOUBLE WATER INLET VALVE
Water filter clogged	Filter symbol lit — waste water was not pumped out in time, so water stays in the drum.	Blocked drain pump filter (coins, lint, hair clips), kinked drain hose.	Clean the filter; if the pump itself is dead: WHIRLPOOL FRONT LOADER WASHING MACHINE DRAIN PUMP
FdL (also shown as F29)	The door cannot unlock at the end of the cycle.	Water still in the drum or too hot; failed door interlock.	WHIRLPOOL FRONT LOADER Washing Machine Door INTERLOCK SWITCH
Door Open indicator blinking	The door cannot lock, so the cycle will not start.	Laundry caught in the seal, residue on the latch, failed interlock.	WHIRLPOOL FRONT LOADER DOOR INTERLOCK SWITCH Late Model 5 Pin
Fod	Excessive foam has interrupted the programme; it can repeat until the foam dies down.	Detergent overdosing, or detergent not suited to a front loader.	Usually a dosing fix, not a part — if it returns at low doses, run the part finder quiz
F24	Too much laundry for that programme’s small maximum load, or an overfill.	Overloaded delicate/wool cycle, or an inlet valve that is not closing fully.	WHIRLPOOL Washing Machine Single Solenoid Inlet Valve Genuine
F20 or F60	Failure of an electronic component — no owner-level diagnosis is published.	Control board, motor control unit or wiring.	Power-cycle once, then book service — start with the part finder quiz
All other F.. failures	Whirlpool groups every other F-number on this platform as an electrical component fault, with the spanner symbol lit.	One-off glitch, a failed component, or a loose connector.	Reset once; if it returns, identify the part via the part finder quiz

FreshCare front loaders (FDLR series): generic F-codes only

The Australian FreshCare manual is the thinnest of the lot, and that is worth knowing before you trust a random code table. It spells out plain-language prompts — “NO WATER, Turn tap on” with a beep every 5 seconds is the big one, covering a closed tap, a bent intake hose, low pressure or simply not pressing Start/Pause. For everything else it just says the display flashes an error code (e.g. F-01, F-..) and gives one instruction: switch off, wait about a minute, switch back on, and call for service if the code returns. No per-code table is published for these machines at all, so any site that tells you exactly what F-07 means on an FDLR10250 is guessing. Do the reset, note the exact characters, and identify the failed part properly before spending money.

Older WFS front loaders: FH, FP, FA and LED patterns

The discontinued WFS series (WFS1273AW, WFS1273BD and siblings) is where the classic Whirlpool European codes live — and it is the family we stock the deepest for. Remember: WFS models without a digital display show these faults as LED light combinations, not letters.

Code	What it means	Most likely cause	The fix
FH	Water supply fault — no or insufficient water within the fill time; Start/Pause flashes.	Tap, hose or inlet mesh filter problems; then a failed inlet valve.	Whirlpool Washing Machine Dual Inlet Valve WFS SERIES
FP	Draining fault — the machine stops mid-cycle with water still in the drum.	Blocked drain pump filter, kinked drain hose, jammed impeller.	WHIRLPOOL WASHING MACHINE DRAIN PUMP WFS1273BW, WFS1273BD
FA	Waterstop / anti-flood fault — water has collected in the base tray and the machine locks out.	A real leak (hose joint, sump, door seal, dispenser) or a stuck anti-flood switch.	Find the leak first — then match the part with the part finder quiz
F0d	Overfoaming interrupted the programme.	Too much detergent, or the wrong detergent type.	Rinse & Spin with no detergent; persistent cases go through the part finder quiz
F02 to F35	Grouped by the WFS manual as a single “electrical module fault” — individual numbers are not decoded for owners.	Transient glitch, or a failed heater, motor, pump, valve, sensor or board.	Reset once; if it returns, work it out via the part finder quiz

WB top loaders: E1 to E5, EA and EC

The WB70803 and WB10037 use their own E-series set, flagged with a buzzer for about 10 seconds. On these machines, press Start/Pause once to cancel the error and again to restart after fixing the cause.

Code	What it means	Most likely cause	The fix
E1	Water does not flow into the tub, or only a slim stream flows in.	Tap off, clogged inlet mesh filter, low pressure, drain hose set too high.	Whirlpool Washing Machine Double Water Inlet Valve
E2	Water does not drain out; the machine stops with water in the tub.	Clogged drain pump filter (clean it monthly), kinked hose, wrong hose height, blocked lint filters.	Whirlpool Washing Machine Pump Assembly Aussie Stock
E3	No spin — the load is out of balance or the machine is not level. A protection response, not a broken part.	Washing piled to one side, one heavy item washed alone, uneven floor.	Redistribute the load and level the feet; recurring cases: part finder quiz
E4	No spin because the lid is open — the classic lid-switch symptom: fills and washes, refuses to spin.	Lid not fully shut, bent or missing lid strike pin, failed lid switch.	Whirlpool Washing Machine Lid Switch
E5	The washer does not wash — Whirlpool’s two checks are the child lock and the lid.	Child lock active, lid open, worn lid pin, failed lid switch.	WHIRLPOOL WASHING MACHINE LID SWITCH (FLAT PINS)
EA or EC	“Other problems” — a fault the machine does not decode for owners.	Control, sensing, motor or wiring fault.	Power off and book service; scope the job with the part finder quiz

F01, F02, F03, F05, F06 and F08: same number, different meanings

Because Whirlpool builds both its own European platform and an acquired platform under the same badge, these F-numbers genuinely conflict between machine families. F05, for example, is a drain blockage on one platform and a temperature sensor fault on another — two completely different repairs. Check the symptom and your own manual before ordering anything.

The washer will not drain: FP, the filter symbol, or E2

This is the most common Whirlpool fault on any platform, and the fix is usually free.

1. Unplug the machine and let any hot water cool before opening anything.
2. Open the small access flap at the bottom front, set a shallow tray and towels underneath, and drain the residual water through the small spout before unscrewing the filter.
3. Unscrew the filter fully, clear coins, lint and hair clips, check the impeller spins freely, and refit the filter tightly.
4. Check the drain hose for kinks and make sure it is not pushed too far down the standpipe — that causes siphoning.
5. On a top loader, also check the lint filter bag inside the drum and the lint filter at the lower back of the machine.
6. Run Drain or Rinse & Spin. If the code returns with a clean filter and clear hose, the pump itself has likely failed.

The washer will not fill: FH, the tap symbol, or E1

Nine times out of ten this is plumbing, not the machine.

1. Open the tap fully and confirm water actually runs from it.
2. Pull the machine out and straighten any kinks in the inlet hose.
3. Turn the tap off, unscrew the inlet hose and clean the small mesh filter at both the tap end and the machine end with a soft brush.
4. If the machine has dual hot/cold inlets, check both taps are on and the hoses are not swapped.
5. Check mains pressure by running the nearest cold tap; in cold weather, check the hose is not frozen.
6. Press Start/Pause to resume, or hold On/Off for at least 3 seconds to reset. A machine that still will not fill with good supply usually needs an inlet valve.

The door will not open: FdL or F29

Do not force it — the machine is usually protecting you from hot water.

1. Press the door firmly near the lock, then press and hold On/Off for at least 3 seconds.
2. After a hot wash, wait for the water and laundry to cool right down, then repeat the hold.
3. If it still will not release, clear the drain pump filter exactly as in the drain steps above — removing the water often frees the lock.
4. As a last resort, follow the emergency door-opening steps in your manual, draining the water first.
5. If the door opens and closes freely but never locks or releases on cue, the interlock has failed; a snapped handle is a cheaper fix — see the WHIRLPOOL WASHING MACHINE DOOR HANDLE.

The top loader fills but will not spin: E4 and E5

E4 and E5 behave exactly like the classic lid-switch complaint — the machine fills and washes happily, then refuses to spin.

1. Close the lid firmly and listen for the click, then restart. Clear anything sitting on top of the machine.
2. For E5, check whether the child lock is set and turn it off using the method in your manual.
3. With the machine unplugged, check the small pin on the underside of the lid is present and straight, and that its slot is clear of lint.
4. Press Start/Pause once to cancel the code, then again to restart.
5. If the lid is shut, the lock is off and the code persists, the lid switch is the prime suspect. On older direct-drive machines that also stopped agitating, the Whirlpool Washing Machine Service Pack Clutch + Lid Switch + Coupling + Agitator covers the usual wear points in one go.

Codes and behaviours that aren’t faults

Whirlpool’s manuals list a surprising number of “problems” that are designed behaviour. Before you book a repair, check this list:

• “Door can be opened” light: a normal status lamp — on some models the door only opens while it is lit. Never force the door while a programme is running.
• Key symbol lit, buttons dead: the child lock is on — hold the button with the key symbol until it clears. It survives switching the machine off and on, which is why it gets mistaken for a dead panel.
• Spin speed “0” flashing, wet laundry: an unbalanced load stopped the spin to protect the machine. Add a few items of different sizes and run Rinse & Spin.
• Machine standing still mid-programme: pauses of up to about two minutes are normal, as are foam-settling and voltage-protection waits. Only a displayed Fod is a foam fault.
• Programme time jumping around: the machine recalculates remaining time for load, foam and cold inlet water — the single most reported “fault” that isn’t one.
• Water in the drum with Start/Pause blinking: often the Rinse Hold option. Select spin speed “0” and press Start/Pause to drain.
• Door locked after a blackout: the door locks during a power cut and the programme resumes when power returns. Only treat it as FdL if power is on and it still will not release.
• Top loader refilling mid-wash, stop-start spinning, water sounds after the spin: automatic top-ups, balance corrections and the balancing liquid in the balance ring — all normal, per the manual.

Find the exact part for your model

Because the same code points to different parts on different platforms, the model number matters more than the code. Grab it from the model sticker, then use our find your model tool or the part finder quiz to land on parts confirmed for your machine. You can browse the full washing machine parts store or jump straight to Whirlpool parts, and our appliance error codes hub covers other brands in the laundry. Not sure which meaning your F-number carries? Send the model number and a photo of the display through our contact page and we will check it against the right platform before you buy.

Whirlpool washer error code FAQ

Why can’t I find an official Whirlpool error code list for Australia?

Because Whirlpool Australia doesn’t publish one. The codes exist only in individual model manuals, and the four platforms sold here use different code languages, so a single official list would be wrong for most machines. Always work from the manual for your exact model number.

My Whirlpool front loader shows no code, just flashing lights. Is it broken?

Possibly — but it can still tell you what’s wrong. WFS-series models without a digital display show the failure as a combination of LED lights on the programme-sequence indicator, and 6th Sense machines use tap, filter and spanner symbols instead of codes. Note which lamps are lit or flashing and match them to the tables above.

Do American Whirlpool codes like F5 E2, Sud or LF apply to my machine?

No. The F#E# pairs, LOC, LF, Sud, dET, oL and PF come from US-market machines on a different product line and should not be applied to Australian Whirlpools. If a code list mentions them, it is the wrong list for your washer.

How do I reset a Whirlpool washing machine error code?

On front loaders, press and hold On/Off for at least 3 seconds, or unplug the machine for about a minute and switch it back on. On WB top loaders, press Start/Pause once to cancel the error and again to restart. One reset is worth trying; if the same code returns, stop resetting and find the cause — repeated resets fix nothing.

What does F05 mean on a Whirlpool washing machine?

It depends on the platform: on one it is a waste-pipe or pump blockage (water stays in the drum and the door will not open), on another it is a water temperature sensor error. Water sitting in the drum points to the drain meaning; a machine that drains fine but will not heat points to the sensor. Check the symptom and your own manual before ordering anything.