Appliance Spares
Quick answer: When the freezer is cold but the fridge section is warm, the problem is almost always in the cold-air distribution system — not the compressor. In 80% of cases it is either a failed evaporator fan motor (stops moving cold air from the freezer into the fridge) or a defrost system failure causing an ice block over the vents. Fan motors cost $18 – $69 and defrost heaters cost $17 – $73 depending on your brand. Both are DIY repairs.
Common parts for this fault: Westinghouse Fan Motor (WTB5400SA series) — $45.95 · Haier Fan Motor (HRF422TW1, HRF502TS1) — $59.95 · Hisense Fan Motor — $69.95 · Samsung Defrost Thermostat — $17.95 · Find your model
Why is this symptom different from a completely dead fridge?
When a fridge is totally dead — both compartments warm, compressor silent — the fault is in the refrigeration circuit itself: the compressor, the sealed system, or the main control board. That is typically an expensive repair requiring a licensed technician.
When the freezer is cold but the fridge section is warm, the compressor is working. Refrigerant is circulating. The appliance is generating cold. The problem is that the cold air is not reaching the fridge section. This is a distribution fault, not a refrigeration fault — and it is almost always fixable at home for under $70.
Why is my freezer cold but my fridge is warm?
Most modern frost-free refrigerators — Samsung, Haier, Hisense, Westinghouse, and most other brands sold in Australia — use a single evaporator located in the freezer compartment to cool both sections. A small evaporator fan motor draws air over the cold evaporator coils and pushes it through internal ducts. Cold air flows into the fridge section through vents; a motorised damper controls how much.
This design has one consequence: if anything stops cold air moving from the freezer into the fridge section, the freezer stays cold (it directly surrounds the evaporator) while the fridge compartment warms up. The two most common causes of this are:
- The evaporator fan motor fails — the fan stops spinning, cold air no longer circulates, and the fridge section warms within a few hours.
- The defrost system fails — frost accumulates unchecked on the evaporator over several days, forming a solid ice block that physically seals the duct openings.
What causes a fridge to stop cooling but the freezer to keep working?
| Cause | Likelihood | Key symptom | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Evaporator fan motor failed | Most likely | No airflow from fridge vents; sudden onset; no fan sound from freezer; evaporator looks clear | Replace fan motor — $18 – $70, 30 – 45 min DIY |
| Defrost failure — ice blocks evaporator | Very likely | Gradual warm-up over days; thick ice sheet visible behind freezer back panel | Manual defrost, then replace defrost heater or thermostat |
| Damper or air diffuser stuck closed | Possible | Fridge warm at top; freezer over-cold; damper visible at top-back of fridge interior | Check damper motor or replace air damper assembly |
| Door seal deteriorated | Possible | Fridge slightly warm; condensation on door surround; compressor runs almost constantly | Replace door gasket seal |
| Thermistor or thermostat fault | Possible | Fridge temperature does not respond to dial adjustment; compressor cycles too short | Replace thermistor or thermostat |
| Compressor underperforming | Rare | Both compartments marginally warmer than normal; compressor running continuously | Licensed refrigeration technician |
How to diagnose the problem in 10 minutes
- Feel for airflow at the fridge vents. Hold your hand near the cold-air vents inside the fridge section while the compressor is running. You should feel a steady cool draught if the fan is operating. No airflow narrows the fault to either a dead fan motor or a blocked evaporator duct.
- Listen at the freezer. Open the freezer door and listen. Most evaporator fans are audible as a soft hum or whir from behind the back panel. If the compressor is running but there is no fan sound, the motor has likely failed.
- Note the rate of warm-up. Did the fridge go warm suddenly, over hours? A fan motor failure can be abrupt. Did it warm gradually over several days? A defrost failure — which causes ice to accumulate progressively — is more likely.
- Remove the freezer back panel. Unplug the fridge. Take out freezer shelves and remove the back panel (two to four screws). Look at the evaporator coil. A thick block of ice indicates a defrost failure. A clear coil with a non-spinning fan points to a failed motor.
- Check the door seals. Slide a piece of paper through the closed fridge door on each side. If it pulls out without resistance, the seal has failed and warm air is leaking in continuously.
Manual defrost test: If you find heavy ice on the evaporator, unplug the fridge and leave both doors open for 24 – 48 hours to fully melt the ice. If the fridge cools normally for a week or two after that and then warms up again, defrost failure is confirmed — replace the defrost heater or bi-metal thermostat.
Fix: replace the evaporator fan motor
This is the single most common fix for a warm fridge with a working freezer. The repair takes 30 – 45 minutes and requires only a Phillips-head screwdriver on most Australian models.
- Unplug the fridge. Empty the freezer and remove all shelves, drawers, and ice trays.
- If there is ice on the evaporator, allow it to fully melt before starting — working around a large ice block risks damaging the coil fins.
- Remove the freezer rear panel (two to four Phillips screws). Set it aside.
- Locate the fan motor on its bracket, usually at the top of the evaporator assembly. The fan blade will be visible.
- Disconnect the wiring connector (press the locking tab and pull straight out).
- Remove the bracket screws and lift the motor free. The fan blade is a push-fit on most models — pull it straight off the shaft.
- Fit the new motor, press the fan blade back onto the shaft, refit the bracket, and reconnect the wiring connector.
- Refit the rear panel, shelves, and drawers. Plug in and monitor — the fridge section should reach normal temperature within 90 – 120 minutes.
Fan motors in stock by brand:
Hisense (HRSBS578BW, HR6SBSFF566, HR6SBSFF624SW) — $69.95 ·
Westinghouse (WTB5400SA, WTB5404SA, WTB5404SB) — $45.95 ·
Haier (HRF422TW1, HRF502TS1) — $59.95
Fix: clear a defrost system failure
A defrost failure means the evaporator heater, the bi-metal thermostat, or the defrost sensor has failed, allowing frost to build until it blocks the airflow duct. The fix has two stages: clear the ice, then replace the failed component.
Stage 1 — manual defrost: Unplug the fridge, leave both doors open, and allow 24 – 48 hours for all ice to melt naturally. Place towels on the floor. Once fully defrosted, plug the fridge back in. If it cools normally, the defrost system is confirmed as the fault.
Stage 2 — replace the failed component: Remove the freezer back panel and access the evaporator. Test the heater with a multimeter (open circuit means it has blown). Test the bi-metal thermostat for continuity when cold (open circuit when cold means it has failed). Replace whichever tests faulty. If you do not own a multimeter, replacing both the heater and thermostat together is a practical approach that renews the entire defrost circuit for around $50 on Samsung models.
Samsung defrost parts:
Defrost Heater (SRS600HNP, SRS607HDSS, SRS628HNS) — $32.95 ·
Defrost Bi-metal Thermostat — $17.95
For other brands, use the Part Finder to identify the correct defrost parts for your model.
Frequently asked questions
My freezer is cold but my fridge is warm — do I need a new compressor?
Almost certainly not. A working freezer means the compressor and refrigerant circuit are intact. The fault is almost always the evaporator fan motor or a defrost system failure. Both are far cheaper to fix than a compressor — parts cost $17 – $70 in most cases.
How quickly should I act when the fridge section stops cooling?
Move perishable food to an esky straight away — food above 5 °C for more than two hours can become unsafe. Then unplug the fridge and begin the manual defrost test. If you need a part, most orders dispatch same day for next-business-day delivery across Australia.
My fridge went warm gradually over about a week — which fault is this?
Gradual onset strongly points to a defrost system failure. A fan motor failure tends to be sudden (the motor stops and the fridge warms within hours). A defrost failure allows ice to accumulate progressively, so you typically notice the fridge getting slightly warmer day by day until the ice block is complete.
How do I find the right fan motor for my brand and model?
Check the model sticker inside the fridge compartment — typically on the left wall or ceiling. Use the Part Finder with your full model number to confirm the exact-fit motor for your fridge.
Can a dirty condenser coil cause the fridge section to warm up while the freezer stays cold?
A dirty condenser reduces overall efficiency but typically causes both compartments to run marginally warm rather than the sharp asymmetry of a warm fridge with a cold freezer. The sharp difference almost always points to the fan motor or defrost system.
Related
- Samsung fridge not cooling — step-by-step diagnosis and fix
- Fridge leaking water — causes and fix
- Hisense fridge spare parts
- Haier fridge spare parts
- Samsung fridge spare parts
- Westinghouse fridge spare parts
- Part Finder — find parts by model number
Ready to fix it?
- Remove the freezer back panel and check: is the evaporator clear (fan motor fault) or covered in ice (defrost fault)? This single step tells you which fix to follow.
- If there is ice: start the manual defrost immediately. While you wait, note the model sticker number and use the Part Finder to confirm the correct defrost heater or thermostat.
- If there is no ice: use the Part Finder with your model number to confirm the correct evaporator fan motor.
- Order before 2 pm AEST on a business day for same-day dispatch from Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
- Follow the repair steps above — most fan motor or defrost component replacements take under one hour with basic hand tools.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
