Appliance Spares
Quick answer: The most common cause of a Samsung front loader such as the WW75H5400EW, WW85H5400EW or WW80J4413IW banging hard on spin is a cracked drum spider, usually with worn drum bearings behind it. Replacing them is the biggest job a front loader gets — drum out, tub split, an afternoon with a socket set and a rubber mallet — and both parts come out in the same strip-down, which is why they are sold together as one kit. Here is how to confirm the fault before you buy anything.
Last updated August 2026
What the banging on spin usually means
A Samsung front loader that washes quietly but starts thumping once it winds up to spin is telling you the drum is no longer running true. On these machines the drum is carried by a three-arm cast alloy spider bolted to its back. The spider’s shaft runs in bearings pressed into the rear of the outer tub, and a lip seal keeps the wash water away from them.
Two things go wrong, and they feed each other. The alloy spider corrodes in the alkaline residue left behind by detergent until one arm cracks or snaps. The drum then wobbles, and at spin speed that wobble hammers the bearings and works the lip seal loose. Once water gets past the seal, the bearings rust and roar. Whichever part fails first, the other is usually not far behind — the case for a combined kit rather than a single part.
A drum bearing kit typically costs $50–59 AUD (median $56.95), as at August 2026. The spider is the dearer of the two parts, and the Samsung kit covered below — the DC97-14369G spider shaft together with the DC62-00008A lip seal and bearings — is priced $15–17 below buying the two parts separately.
Which Samsung models the kit is listed for
Start with the model sticker — inside the door opening on most Samsung front loaders, otherwise on the back panel — and match the full model number. The kit matches the models listed below; if yours is close but not identical, send us the model number and we’ll check before you order.
| Samsung model number (from the model sticker) | Repair kit listed for it |
|---|---|
 WW75H5400EW, WW85H5400EW, WW80J4413IW | Samsung spider & bearing kit (DC97-14369G + DC62-00008A) |
| WW85K5410WW, WW85K6410QX, WW80H5270EW | Same kit — DC97-14369G spider + DC62-00008A seal & bearings |
| WW85H7410EW, WW75K5210WW | Same kit |
| WF806U4SAWQTC, WF856UHSAGD, WF856UHSAWQ, WF1804WPC | Same kit (WF1804WPC: see the note under the table) |
One caution on the last row: the WF1804WPC also appears against our other Samsung spider kit, which uses the DC97-15185A spider. If that is your machine, send us the full model number including the suffix and we’ll confirm which spider your drum takes.
How to confirm the fault before you buy
Unplug the machine and turn off the taps first. None of these checks needs tools, and together they separate a spider-and-bearing fault from cheaper causes of a noisy spin.
1. Rule out the easy things
- Load balance. A single heavy item such as a bath mat will thump in a healthy machine. Run an empty spin; if the banging stops, blame the load.
- Feet and transit bolts. Rock the cabinet corner to corner, and if the machine has moved house recently, check the rear panel for shipping bolts.
- Foreign objects. A coin or bra wire between drum and tub gives a sharp tinkle or scrape rather than a heavy thump, on wash as well as spin.
2. Feel for drum play
Take hold of the front lip of the empty drum with both hands. Lift up and push down firmly, then rock it towards you and away. A healthy drum feels solid. A few millimetres of up-and-down play, or a dull clunk as you change direction, means the bearings have opened up. Movement that feels like the drum tilting on its mounting, with a knock from the back of the tub, points at the spider.
3. Turn the drum slowly by hand
Rotate the drum a full turn with your ear near the door. Worn bearings give a dry rumble, a gritty feel through your fingers, or a tick once per turn. A drum that turns smoothly but has play in the previous check more likely has a cracked spider arm with bearings that are still intact.
4. Look at the washing and under the machine
A corroding spider sheds grey or black oxide, and rusting bearings send rusty water back through the seal. Look for grey streaks or fine dark specks on light-coloured washing, and rust marks that land in the same spots load after load. A damp patch under the back of the cabinet, or a rust trail down the back of the tub, is water getting past the lip seal.
5. What you find once the drum is out
The confirmation comes at strip-down: a crack at the root of one arm, an arm snapped through, or white powdery corrosion pitting the casting thin. Pulled bearings will be rusty, notchy or seized. Our guide to a front loader banging violently on spin because of a broken spider arm shows what a failed casting looks like.
Why the kit replaces the spider and the bearings together
It is tempting to replace only the part that has obviously failed. In practice that brings the noise back within months.
- A new spider on tired bearings runs true for a while, but the bearings are already worn from the hammering and the drum soon rumbles, then knocks again.
- New bearings and a new seal behind a corroded spider get hammered by the same wobble that killed the last set.
- Both parts live in the same place: you cannot reach the bearings without lifting the drum and spider out. Doing the job twice means splitting the tub twice.
The Samsung spider and bearing kit pairs the two parts this job needs: the DC97-14369G spider shaft, which comes with its three side bolts, and the lip seal and bearings kit. Both are also listed on their own if you only need one, and the full range of paired parts is in our Repair Kits category.
What the job involves
This is the biggest repair a front loader gets, so go in with realistic expectations. Broadly:
- Unplug, turn off the taps and drain the machine through the filter at the bottom front.
- Remove the top, front and rear panels, and fold the door seal back off the front of the tub.
- Take off the counterweights, belt and motor, and disconnect hoses, wiring and shock absorbers from the tub.
- Unhook the tub from its springs and lift it out — a second pair of hands helps.
- Split the outer tub, remove the spider bolts and lift the drum and spider out.
- Drive the old bearings and seal out of the rear tub half, clean the housing, and press the new ones in squarely.
- Fit the new spider to the drum, then reassemble in reverse order.
Time and tools. Allow an afternoon. You will need a socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, a rubber mallet, a torch and floor space for the tub. Reassembly is where most people get stuck, so photograph every plug and hose on the way apart.
Doing it yourself. Pros: you save the labour, and there is nothing exotic in the job — bolts, clips and patience, and many owners get through it with a video. Cons: it is heavy, wet and slow, old bearings can be stubborn, and a tub not sealed properly leaves you chasing a leak.
Handing it to a repairer. Pros: a tradie who does these weekly has the tub apart and back together far faster, and will spot a damaged tub half you might miss. Cons: you pay labour on top of the parts. Plenty of customers order the kit and hand it to a local repairer.
Is it worth doing on this machine?
For a Samsung front loader that is otherwise sound — door seal intact, electronics behaving, no rust in the cabinet — a spider and bearing kit buys years more service for a fraction of the cost of a new machine, especially if you fit it yourself. If it also has a leaking door seal, a failing pump and a control board throwing errors, the sums change. Our guide on whether a washing machine bearing replacement is worth it or whether to buy new walks through that decision. Whatever you decide, do not keep running the machine while it bangs: every spin with a cracked spider hammers the bearings and risks the drum contacting the tub.
Frequently asked questions
Is the banging definitely the spider, or could it just be the bearings?
It can be either, and after a few weeks of noise it is usually both. Heavy knocking with a drum that tilts on its mount points at the spider; a rumble that builds through the spin, with up-and-down play at the front of the drum, points at the bearings. They fail together and come out together, so the kit covers both.
Which part numbers are in the kit?
The DC97-14369G spider shaft and the DC62-00008A lip seal and bearings kit, listed for the WW75H5400EW, WW85H5400EW, WW80J4413IW, WW85K5410WW, WW85K6410QX and the other models in the table above. Confirm your model number on the model sticker before ordering.
My Samsung front loader is not in the table. Can I still use this kit?
Not without checking. Samsung has used more than one spider design across its front loaders, and a spider that is even slightly different will not bolt up. Send us the full model number from the sticker and we’ll tell you which kit matches your machine.
How long does the job take, and can I do it myself?
Allow an afternoon with a socket set, a rubber mallet and a helper for the tub. It is the biggest job on a front loader, but mechanical rather than technical, and many owners manage it with a video. If that is not you, order the spider and bearing kit and hand it to a local repairer.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
