Appliance Spares
Quick answer: If your Haier top loader finishes the wash and leaves the drum full of water — lid locked, maybe an error beep — the drain pump is the usual suspect once you have ruled out a kinked hose and a clogged coin trap. Genuine Haier pumps for the HWT07–HWT12 families typically run $55–75, and the swap is two screws, two spade connectors and a hose clamp. What matters is matching the pump to the model number on your machine’s sticker — three HWT families take three different pumps.
Last updated August 2026
The wash is done. The water is going nowhere
The cycle ends, you come back to hang the load out, and the drum is still full of grey water. The lid will not unlock — most Haier top loaders keep it locked while there is water aboard — and the machine may be beeping an error at you.
On the HWT family — the budget top loaders standing in an enormous number of Australian laundries — this comes down to one of three things: a kinked drain hose, a blocked coin trap, or a drain pump that has died. The first two are free to fix. The third is a genuine part typically $55–75, and one of the gentlest swaps in appliance repair.
The catch is that Haier never fitted one pump across the range. Three HWT families take three different genuine pumps, older machines take a fourth, and the classic belt-drive Whirlpools take their own again. Here is the map.
| Model on the sticker | The genuine drain pump |
|---|---|
 HWT07AN1, HWT08AN1, HWT09AN1 | Genuine Haier drain pump for HWT07AN1, HWT08AN1, HWT09AN1 |
 HWT10AD1, HWT10AN1, HWT10ANB1 | Genuine Haier drain pump for HWT10AD1, HWT10AN1, HWT10ANB1 |
 HWT12AD1, HWT60AA1, HWT75AA1 | Genuine Haier drain pump for HWT12AD1, HWT60AA1, HWT75AA1 |
 Older Haier top loaders | Genuine Haier drain pump H0034000110D |
 Fisher & Paykel top loaders on the shared platform | Genuine Fisher & Paykel drain pump H0034000110D |
 Classic belt-drive Whirlpool top loaders | Whirlpool drain pump 3363394 |
Two free checks before you spend a cent
1. The drain hose
Pull the machine out and look behind it. A top loader shoved hard against the wall can fold its own drain hose flat, and a hose pushed too far down the standpipe can airlock. Straighten the kink, pull the hose back so only 100–150 mm sits in the standpipe, and run a rinse-and-spin. If the water leaves, you are done, and it cost nothing.
2. The coin trap and the impeller
Everything that escapes a pocket ends up at the pump: coins, bra wires, hair clips, the odd cotton sock. Some machines give you an access panel at the base; on the HWT family you reach the pump from underneath once the machine is unplugged and tipped back. Pull the hose off the pump inlet and check nothing is jammed against the impeller. A pump that hums but does not move water is usually blocked, not broken. A pump that is stone silent with a locked, full drum is the real thing.
Unplug the machine at the wall before you tip it or touch anything underneath — water and 240V share this job. And never force or bypass the locked lid: pull the plug and the lock releases on its own within a minute or two, then bail the drum out or lower the drain hose into a shallow tray on the floor and let gravity do it.
Match the pump to the sticker, not the brand
Our general which-drain-pump guide covers the front-loader side of the story. Top loaders deserve their own map, because the HWT range looks identical from the outside and is not identical underneath.
HWT07AN1, HWT08AN1, HWT09AN1 — the 7 to 9 kg family
The small-drum HWTs share one genuine pump across all three sizes. If the sticker under the lid or on the back panel says HWT07AN1, HWT08AN1 or HWT09AN1, this is your part, whichever capacity you bought.
HWT10AD1, HWT10AN1, HWT10ANB1 — the 10 kg family
The 10 kg machines moved to a different pump body. It is not interchangeable with the smaller family’s pump, even though the two look similar in photos. Match the full model code, letters included: an AD1, AN1 and ANB1 all take this one.
HWT12AD1, HWT60AA1, HWT75AA1 — the 12 kg and the AA series
The big 12 kg HWT12AD1 shares its genuine pump with the HWT60AA1 and HWT75AA1. If your model ends in AA1, look here first.
H0034000110D — one pump, two badges
Older Haier top loaders take the genuine H0034000110D pump, and here is the quiet bonus: Haier and Fisher & Paykel have been one family for years, so the very same pump serves a run of Fisher & Paykel top loaders too. Same part, two badges. Whichever brand is printed on your lid, it is the model number on the sticker that decides it.
Whirlpool 3363394 — the belt-drive classics
If the machine in your laundry is one of the long-serving belt-drive Whirlpool top loaders, its drain pump is the 3363394, typically $20–35. These machines refuse to die, and the pump is usually the first thing to blink in a twenty-year staring contest.
The swap: tip the machine, two screws, one clamp
This is a genuine beginner’s job. No gas, no sealed system, no soldering — just a small pump at the base of the machine.
- Unplug at the wall. Cord out of the socket before anything else. Turn off the taps while you are back there.
- Empty the drum. Bail it out, or lower the drain hose to floor level into a tray and let it siphon.
- Tip the machine. Walk it out, lay an old towel down and lean the machine back against the wall, or lie it gently on its side. The pump sits at the base, in plain view.
- Photograph the wiring, then disconnect. Two spade connectors pull off the pump terminals. The hose comes off next — squeeze the spring clamp with pliers and slide it back. Expect a cup or two of trapped water.
- Two screws. That is all that holds the pump to the chassis. Out with the old, in with the new, same orientation.
- Reconnect and test. Spade connectors on, hose seated, spring clamp back in place. Stand the machine up, plug in, run a rinse-and-spin and watch underneath for drips before you push it back.
Allow 30 to 60 minutes end to end. A repairer’s call-out sits at the typical $100–165 before the part is fitted, so the pump pays for itself the moment you pick up the screwdriver. If tipping a washing machine is not your idea of a weekend, fair call — the exact part number still means the repairer finishes in one visit instead of two.
If a new pump does not fix it
- Water on the laundry floor rather than water stuck in the drum points at a hose or a pump seal — work through washing machine leaking from underneath before buying anything.
- Drains but will not spin with the drum empty is a different fault family — suspension, lid switch or motor — not the pump.
- Front-loader Haier in the laundry instead? The Haier HWF85AN1 parts guide covers the door seal and drain pump on that side of the family.
Whatever it turns out to be, the part is in our washing machine parts range — pumps, seals, switches and hoses for the machines Australians actually own.
Frequently asked questions
Why won’t my Haier top loader drain or unlock the lid?
The machine keeps the lid locked while it senses water in the drum, so a failed drain pump traps both the water and the lid. Unplug the machine and the lock releases within a minute or two. Check the drain hose for kinks and the pump inlet for coins or wire first; if the pump is silent on a full drum, it needs replacing.
Which drain pump fits my Haier HWT top loader?
Three families, three pumps: HWT07AN1, HWT08AN1 and HWT09AN1 share one genuine pump; HWT10AD1, HWT10AN1 and HWT10ANB1 take a second; HWT12AD1, HWT60AA1 and HWT75AA1 take a third. Older machines use the H0034000110D. Match the full model number on the model sticker — or send it to us and we will check before you order.
How do I empty a top loader that is full of water?
Unplug it at the wall, wait for the lid lock to release, then either bail the drum out with a jug or lift the drain hose off the standpipe and lower it into a shallow tray on the floor and let it siphon out. Never force a locked lid or bypass the interlock.
Are Haier and Fisher & Paykel top loader pumps the same part?
On the shared platform, yes — the genuine H0034000110D pump serves both badges, so the same pump appears under a Haier listing and a Fisher & Paykel listing. That only holds for the models built on that platform, so confirm your model number against the listing before buying.
How long does it take to replace a top loader drain pump?
Around 30 to 60 minutes. Unplug at the wall, empty the drum, tip the machine back, pull two spade connectors, release one spring hose clamp and undo two screws. Fitting the new pump is the same in reverse, then a rinse-and-spin to check for leaks.
Get the right pump, first go
Lift the lid or check the back panel for the model sticker, and read the whole code — HWT10AN1 and HWT10ANB1 are one letter apart and that letter matters. Search the model number on our site and the matching pump comes straight up. Not sure which one you are reading? Send the model number through our contact page and we will match the exact pump before you order. Get it to us by 12pm Sydney time and the pump is dispatched from Sydney’s Northern Beaches the day you order — with a bit of luck, the drum is empty and the towels are on the line by the weekend.
Disclaimer: this article is general information only and is provided without warranty of any kind. Appliance designs vary between models and production runs — always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, switch off and unplug the appliance before starting any work, and confirm parts against the model number on your appliance’s model sticker. Any repair is undertaken at your own risk and Oz Appliance Spares accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage arising from work performed after reading this guide, to the maximum extent permitted by law. If in doubt, use a qualified technician.
